Downtown Wheaton’s Newest Restaurant Is A Hit

Right in the center of downtown Wheaton, a pair of bright blue doors under a makeshift awning announces the debut of Wheaton’s newest restaurant: Yiá Mas, an authentic Greek restaurant. You can still see the remnants of the former occupant, the unfortunate Wheaton House Kitchen & Tap (133 W Front St.), which opened just before the pandemic and quickly closed. The other day, I treated myself to a meal to see what Yiá Mas is all about. Here’s what I found:

Upon entering the restaurant, the crisp blue and white color scheme made me wonder if I had stumbled upon the sunny, cliffside streets of Santorini. Conversations in Greek floated around the restaurant as waiters glided from table to table. Dark wooden platters adorned with pita covered the white table cloths. The food proved just as enjoyable as the charming atmosphere.

The meal started with a bread basket; the warm bread had a savory crust that was satisfying to break. Served with a light and aromatic homemade olive oil, this accompaniment elevated the flavor profile of the bread, setting the tone for what was to come. 

I ordered a Greek coffee ($5), percolated over an open flame with the grounds still in the water, mixed with a tasteful amount of sugar. The blending of this sweet and strong brew creates a unique flavor, unmatched by any brew using a filter. Greek coffee sits heavier in the mouth, allowing for a full appreciation of the top notes of sweet fruit and smokey wood. 

Deciding on an appetizer proved difficult due to the menu’s extensive options, but I eventually settled on tzatziki and pita ($10). Fresh from the oven, the pita bread made the perfect conduit for the tzatziki, a refreshing yogurt sauce. I was surprised that the cucumber flavor, a staple in traditional tzatziki, did not come through, but the dill, sour yogurt and sweet anise-like greens perfectly complemented the pita. 

I next sampled pork ($17) and chicken souvlaki ($17) as well as dolmades ($18). The pork souvlaki, most likely tenderloin, was presented on a skewer after being marinated in garlic, oregano and lemon juice. Unlike most lemon dishes, the acidity did not overpower my palate. Although lacking the bold flavor of the pork, the chicken souvlaki was similarly tender and evenly grilled. There wasn’t much in the way of seasoning, but the chicken had no lingering burnt flavor, a problem common to grilled meats. 

On the side, I ordered mashed potatoes with greek yogurt and feta cheese ($6). The potatoes were thickly mashed, making a nice blend with the yogurt and feta. However, the flavors of the sour yogurt and potatoes overshadowed the salty undernotes of the feta. The final component of this course was dolmades, ground meat wrapped in grape leaves. They were large enough that I had some trouble wrangling them from my plate to my mouth, but the taste was pleasurable once I got them there. Overall, the main dish experience was nothing revolutionary in the Greek food scene, but it was authentic Mediterranean comfort food, which stands out in Wheaton’s still brewhouse-dominated restaurant landscape. 

For dessert, I had a choice between several traditional homemade options, including baklava (filo dough with chopped walnuts and honey), karidopita (a sweet spice cake), and halva (a semolina-based pudding). I chose galaktoboureko ($7), which is crispy filo dough filled with custard common to the Black Sea region. The moist outer layer of filo dough had top notes of honey and cinnamon, and the presence of lemon, nutmeg and custard made the texture smooth and creamy. 

Dining at Yiá Mas is an exciting experience, and you get what you pay for: main dishes are priced around $20-$40. With generous portions, however, you’ll walk away feeling full. A Greek-speaking couple seated next to me was quick to inform me that I was in for a treat. Greek aficionados and adventurous foodies alike: look no further than Yiá Mas.